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What size to buy


scubajunky

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Maybe £34.90 on Premium Membership?

Technically, alcohol is a solution..

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The reason i say 75% gold 25% silver is when it comes to sell gold is just so much easier to deal with, lower spread and therefore far more likely to be profitable. 

Playing the silver numismatic game is totally different and can for sure be lucrative, but can also leave you open to big losses - i know, i got milk spotting on a perth mint lunar 2 oz proof set!😆

I guess it all comes down to how you plan to exit the market when you want to - For me a low hassle fast cash way of selling to a dealer is best and so gold is far more suited.

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I'd buy 1oz Silver Britannias, maybe a monster box full? Then a tube of 25 Full Gold Sovereigns? You would pretty much be sorted then. The only thing is, the price of precious metals do fluctuate, so think whether you want to go all in now or build up to that amount gradually. All depends on whether you think precious metals are going to go up or down in price? I personally think they will be coming down before we see any significant price hikes, this is why I am accumulating gradually over the next few years.

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8 minutes ago, Madstacks said:

The reason i say 75% gold 25% silver is when it comes to sell gold is just so much easier to deal with, lower spread and therefore far more likely to be profitable. 

Playing the silver numismatic game is totally different and can for sure be lucrative, but can also leave you open to big losses - i know, i got milk spotting on a perth mint lunar 2 oz proof set!😆

I guess it all comes down to how you plan to exit the market when you want to - For me a low hassle fast cash way of selling to a dealer is best and so gold is far more suited.

You could always ask BYB to throw them in his furnace 😉

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I'm partial to 1 oz silver coins and rounds.  For gold I like smaller fractionals, 1/4 or 1/10 oz. This is predicated on my belief that during my lifetime, both silver and gold will increase in value (possibly substantially) and costwise the smaller coins would be affordable to more people than the larger ones.   At the end of the day, though, you have to figure out what works for your purposes.

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silver takes time to rise in value. (silver took almost a decade

to go from it's 2002 low to it's 2011 high, and that's if you had

a working crystal ball). size affects storage. depending on

how flexible your method of storage is will give certain

advantages to specific type of storage solutions. I would treat

gold and silver separately, and buy as much as you feel

comfortable with. start with gold as it's easier to sell on at a

lower loss if your understanding with pms mean that you want

reduce your exposure to a certain type, size etc. money put

into silver is probably best considered as dead money until it

matures(this can take some time). so more care should be

taken when allocating sums to silver.

 

HH

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I think it depends on what your goals are, or, maybe, your concerns.

Many people here are collectors, and they typically purchase proofs and base their purchases on beauty, etc.

Many people are just piling silver high and don't care as long as it is silver, and for them the deciding factor is the price over spot, and they'll often lean towards higher sizes of bars because that is the lowest premium.

Many people are more of your anti-fiat currency, prepper types, and for them smaller denominations such as 1oz rounds and "constitutional silver" (in the United States that's 90% silver government coins with no numismatic value) are a good choice.

So it depends.

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3 minutes ago, scubajunky said:

Great, I have bought a couple of 1kg coins from GSB and  one of them  had already been opened, on closer inspection I can see it has a coupe of milk spots. So it will not affect the value of it in any way ?

scubajunky, that's more of a question for someone else to answer.  I'm not a collector of proof coins, I'm a bullion stacker, so to me it's just silver and the fact that it is pretty, proof, etc, to me is of absolutely zero interest.  There are, however, people here who collect coins, as a hobby and as investors, who can give you more information about how milk spots affect a coin's value on the secondary coin market.  I am telling you that the floor of that price is the spot price, someone will always give you that, but most of these proof style coins are worth more than that ... and the milk spots may affect that "more" part of the price.  Essentially you can always get spot price based on weight (melt value) from someone like me, but the secondary coin market has people who are willing to pay a premium for proofs, numismatic/old coins, etc, which are worth more than spot.

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  • 2 months later...
On 14/09/2018 at 08:12, scubajunky said:

Thanks everyone, regarding spotting, I bought a 1kg coin from an EU dealer. Perth mint, and it has a couple of tiny spots on it. What should I do ? 

Least you know its real silver and not fake

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Im pretty much the same as scubajunky. Buying silver for the long term investment and not for the sake of collecting.

Only ones im looking at collecting is the queens beasts as i have a cool idea with them for a presentation piece at home. And the marvel coins as im a comic geek. Really wish someone would produce 4000 ad ones with dread and mean machine.

The rest in silver would be britainias and small bars as main bulk

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