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  1. Those tiny bottles of whiskey like what you get on an airplane or in a hotel room.
  2. This might be it https://www.coinarchives.com/w/lotviewer.php?LotID=4306056&AucID=4520&Lot=34175&Val=3d1703a81c452d0f95cfd3f5df4c8920
  3. Haven't tried this. I have told coin shops what I will buy and that I pay spot. So when they get a large bar or ugly beat-up coins they may call. But then of course I might not have the cash when they call! They can sell to wholesale and they get spot -0.50 for that. So they will call if they trust you will follow-through with the offer for spot.
  4. Hmm ... I'd rather it be heavy actually.
  5. Yes I have done this. If you are picky about what you want in exchange, you won't get as good a deal. If rather, you accept what coin shop wants to trade, you will get a better deal. They are accustomed to people who want to trade. They want to make a profit on the deal. But they do not need to make two profits. There is opportunity for them to profit on buying the silver, and then to profit from sale on gold. But this can be one transaction, and only one profit is needed. The way you can get the best deal is to accept the gold they want to trade to you. A useful way to present yourself is to say something like: "Trade this silver for gold bullion." This allows shop to bring out the gold they have in-stock or stuff they can't sell as easily. If the swap seems like there is too much cost to you, then you can say "you only need one profit, right?" In this way, you give what you want to give for silver, and they give what they want in gold. If the swap seems to be too expensive, try another shop. May I suggest you try at a place where you know the price will be too high first, such as a pawn shop or a pawn+coin shop. Then that gives you an idea about what your trade is worth. A better place (true coin shop) will beat that deal with no problem. It is likely the trade will require some cash from either party to make the trade even. They are used to doing this and can get the trade down to a few dollars either way. They will give you a better deal if they have seen you before. However, your primary introduction is your good silver. You got that somehow, yes? Well they are not stupid, and if you take an interest in their shop and coins, they are looking at getting you as a regular customer. So ask them questions that come to mind about what sort of business they have, or ask questions about some of their inventory that interests you.
  6. DoubleEagle


    Charles Asprey and George Asprey [ CA GA] Date letter. I am not sure of what it is. Looks like [N] or [M], but could be . That one likely 1907 M, 1908 N, 1915 U, or the similar series: 1927 M, 1928 N, 1935 U Appears hallmarked in London [the other blob looking mark] [Lion-passant] means .925 sterling
  7. No Double this time. The 1909 is a D, but it is not scarce and the coin grades AU; that's why it's not in a slab yet. The 1914 is a D also.
  8. Yes! Good eye. I also tried on the 39 and 34, and liked this one the best.
  9. You folks have some of the best watches. I got this one because I like a smaller watch that will fit under a long-sleeved shirt without any fuss.
  10. If it is 14k like it says ... then you need to know how many grams it weighs. Then you take the grams in weight and multiply X 14/24 (or .583 if you prefer). Say you have 20 grams 14k 20 x 14/24 = 11.67 grams net gold. Then 11.67/31.1 = 0.375 ounces. Then 0.375 x spot price gold. That gives you melt value. Some place will give you 65-70% of melt without problems. Any amount you pay over melt/spot is based upon how you value used jewellery. If the piece is really nice, some will pay almost double melt. You can buy new gold jewellery for double melt value at a good shop. So don't pay too much for used.
  11. Yes it looks OK. The 1964 is a Kennedy half dollar; those were almost always saved and not used, so the weight is higher. For that reason they trade these days for more money than the older and more worn half dollars. The 1942 is a Walking Liberty half dollar; these were heavily used and therefore weigh a bit less. The other one is a Franklin half dollar; those have moderate wear. So quite a few American dealers will give you an assortment if you order half dollars. The reason behind this is the weight tends to be just what you are seeing. And they will match a Kennedy with a Walking Liberty to even the deal out. One thin one + one thick one. You get the idea? The Franklins are usually moderately worn. So one Walking Liberty + one Kennedy roughly equals 2 Franklins. So if you sell all 3 as a set it will be a fair deal to the buyer.
  12. Hmm ... Most people and shops express price as a certain amount x face value. So, for example the price to buy might be said as "15 times face," and so on a quarter that would mean 15 x .25 = $3.75. So that guy was offering you 16x, which is tiny bit high. They're been selling for 14x or 15x or 16x range lately in my area. And then if you were selling, the price is still something times face. So the shop will buy for around 12x, and sell for 15x. At $18 spot, a quarter's melt value = $3.22 (13x) At $18 spot, a dime's melt value = 1.29 (13x) 16x reflects price of $22.30 per ounce
  13. ~ 150-300 USD Thrace Istros ca. 280-256BC, VF, spot corrosion? Two facing heads, left inverted / ISTRIH, sea-eagle grasping a dolphin to left, control marks Phi-Y below