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  1. Just a guess; looks like an import mark. Import marks required .925 starting in 1904. The CAC looks like C&C to me. It is worn down low, obscuring some of the A or &. If C&C, then that mark looks like Cohen & Charles. So it is possible it was imported from foreign source by Albert Cohen & Charles Soloman between 1904 and 1958; after 1958 C&C was sold to Rose. The date mark would be the L looking one. London had such a mark in 1926. Even the box outline around the L looks similar to 1926. The * sort of mark could be assay or maker. It appears assay because there are others marked at London like it in 1925 and 1926. They dropped the handy F for foreign mark in 1904.
  2. In USA buy for spot + $1.00; sell for spot - $0.60. That is everyday price. Sometimes can buy cheaper. Those are nice bars and would likely get some premium from collector. However, collector likes smaller bars more, and not big bars like kilo or 100 oz.
  3. "craft foam" is just foam and 2mm thick. It comes in sheets. Felt is also usually 2mm thick and comes in sheets and remnants. Table foam is padding for beneath the felt on gaming tables. It is usually 1/4 inch thick, or about 5-6 mm. It comes in 60 inch-wide rolls, and is sold by the foot in length. Cloth-backed foam is just that, and comes in 1/4 and 1/2 inch thicknesses. It comes in 54 inch-wide rolls, up to 20 yards long. Stif-Felt is actually not really felt. It is synthetic felt. It is 5-6mm thick and self-adhesive in sheets. Weighs 59 oz per yard. 4x5 foot sheets. You might like "tool box foam" which is a "soft foam" to cushion tools. People put it in the drawers of their tool boxes. They may cut-out outlines to shadow their tools as well. This can be had in 1/4, 1/2, and one inch. Most of the felts are not actually wool, but synthetic. But you can layer real felt above some rubber type foam.
  4. Ooh good question. Some older models are popular. Also some sellers mark the used ones higher than what they will sell them for as well.And then again some are simply too expensive all of the time. You need watch to figure out if the price is a firm one, or if they actually expect haggling. When you say invest in a watch, Rolex comes to mind right away. Any Rolex. Whereas with many other brands you would want certain models.
  5. There is requirement to collect and remit sales tax based upon the address the stuff is being shipped to. Note the seller is required based upon the shipping address, no matter what the buyer may claim his residence, and so forth. Most states do not require tax on silver and gold. States that require tax on silver and gold: Arkansas, District of Columbia, Hawaii, Kentucky, Maine, Minnesota, Mississippi, New Jersey, New Mexico, Ohio, Tennessee, Vermont, and Wisconsin. Those are the evil 13. States with a threshold limit: California rule: sales of silver and gold are exempt only if the transaction is $1,500 or more. Connecticut rule: sales of silver and gold are exempt only if the transaction is $1,000 or more. Maryland rule: sales of silver and gold are exempt only if the transaction is $1,000 or more. Massachusetts rule: sales of silver and gold are exempt only if the transaction is $1,000 or more. New York rule: sales of silver and gold are exempt only if the transaction is $1,000 or more. Virginia rule: sales of silver and gold are exempt only if the transaction is $1,000 or more. So a person can conduct tax-free sales between people in most states. Some sellers want to avoid collecting tax, and therefore do not ship to the evil 13. Some sellers also do not want to handle a tax transaction in states that have a threshold limit, and that's another six states.
  6. Do you like the Oyster style bracelet, or the Jubilee style? I have had and like both. Here's Oyster style Hamilton. I found on UK site here:
  7. If you want the whole set, there are a few that are expensive. 96W Olympic Cauldron MS ~ $700 97W Jackie Robinson MS ~ $900 14W Hall of Fame, individual players. The basic coin is ~ $500, but the individual payers are very high. So you could skip the players. Those are the problem coins in MS. Not too bad really.
  8. Yeah, you got the idea: the auto are more expensive usually. If you wear all the time, you do not need to set the time very often. I see your likes with coins, and think you may enjoy a little mechanical marvel like an automatic. It is fun to shop, buy, and then wear the perfect watch ... sort of like shopping for the those certain coins that you like. The exact style will be a personal decision though. The idea is to get enjoyment out of looking at your watch.
  9. Heya Paecemaker Have a look at website when you feel like browsing. Not because you should buy there, but because they display just about everything in watches. You need to decide battery (quartz), or Automatic. You can get entry-level Swiss movements (the guts of the watch are called movement). The entry-level are actually great watches! Brands are Tissot and Hamilton, and not-Swiss is Seiko. Hamilton has worked for me in the past. If you want, check out Hamilton Khaki Navy Automatic for a similar bezel to what you are showing in your post.
  10. Began collecting in 1965. My parents became aware the coins were no longer silver, so we started keeping any old silver coins found in circulation. And my mother got me one of those blue albums to collect Lincoln pennies. Began stacking for weight after the Hunt brothers tried to corner the silver market, ca. 1980.
  11. Got some Sovereigns and pre 33 US stuff
  12. Received from @Lr103 a full tube Brits. Thanks! This guy knows how to package, ship, and gives you tracking updates also.
  13. For bullion coins, those tubes work good. Many bullion types have their own special tubes; for others you can get "square" plastic tubes which are sold by diameter in mm. The good brand seems to be Coin Safe. For individual special bullion or collectible coins, the Air Tite brand capsules are great.
  14. JM Bullion has bullion Sovereigns on sale for spot = $7. Mixed years and could be circulated. Free shipping.
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