Coin Photography

[rob6]

Help most definitely required.

Could you please give me some advice, hints, and tips, for obtaining half decent photo's to upload when I want t sell some of my coins.

I am using my i phone 6 SE, and to date have managed to take "absolute cr#p" images with brilliant reflections and no details whatsoever!!!!!

How do you guys and gals get them so good?

Grateful for any help

Thanks,  Rob

[sovereignsteve]

Chuffing difficult. I've tried all sorts of setups and lighting over the years and never been really happy with them.

@sg86 was producing some good shots a while back but I think he had some very expensive gear.

I suspect most of the good photos you see around the commercial sites use a lot of computer processing, which TBH I can't be bothered to do.

[HelpingHands]

Does your phone have a macro option for photos?   If so you can get up close.

[rob6]

Yes it does, I'll have to check if it makes any difference regarding reflection.

Cheers Rob

[augur]

Macro lens kit for smartphone (£17) and then quick processing on the phone of evil (highlights down, shadows up; contrast down, exposure up)

[rob6]

21 minutes ago, augur said:

Macro lens kit for smartphone (£17) and then quick processing on the phone of evil (highlights down, shadows up; contrast down, exposure up)

Thanks for advice, can you recommend any one in particular?

[CadmiumGreen]

I do straight stick iPhone camera, 1x and 2x, selecting the best photo from several angles. Use natural lighting through the window. No other overhead lighting, if at all possible. Those little easel stands come in handy, and a granite chopping block for a base gives a good setting. I usually take lots of photos of the same side and pick the one that looks the best after cropping in the “Photos”...can always delete them later if they don’t look right.

[TonyS]

For ten years I was a professional photographer. The best way to photograph a shiny object is to use 2-1 lighting from either side angled at 45° and angled down by 60° to the centre line of the line of sight.
It’s a pain in the a*** to do but it works. You’ll get the detail and depth.

The quick and easy method is put a diffuser over the flash unit. If you can, angle it to the side.

There are other methods but it’s 04:10 and I’m not writing an essay at this time in the morning. (The joys of insomnia).

[sgcoins]

If you want some really sharp and clear pictures, a DSLR camera is your best option. The cheapest available is good enough for this, your lens is the most important. For this picture I did use a 9 year old Canon EOS 50D, with a professional 100mm 2.8 L series macro lens.

This coin was in a PCGS slab and I was using natural daylight(I always do), a flash is not good for photographing coins in slabs (and proof coins in general) As a background I always use a regular A4 printing sheet, also with raw coins. my aperture was a little to high with f2.8 it's best to use f3.5 or 5.6.    

 

[LawrenceChard]

How to Photograph Coins  - A Very Quick First Draft

I thought we had an advice or blog page on one our websites, but can't find it. There are some photos of our set-ups on Flickr, but nowhere do we have a complete guide, so I have just created a new project. I just shared the first rough draft, as below, with Doug, our photographer, and invited him to help.

A guide to taking better photographs of coins. 

It is possible to take good quality photos of coins without a large outlay on equipment, but to get the best results will require some investment on kit, such as camera, lenses, tripod, stand, lighting, photoshop or other editing software, and time. 

Even with the best hardware and software in the world, it needs time and effort to learn how to use them to get the best results. Some trial and error will be involved. 

Which camera? 

For the best results, you will need a modern DSLR digital single lens reflex camera, which will require some investment, unless you already own one. 

Most modern smart phones have very good cameras built in. Obviously, some are better than others, and the results will never be technically as good as a DSLR, but almost everybody owns one, carries it around with them, and they are compact, and highly portable. 

Lighting 

Good lighting is essential. Many people have their own preferences. It is probably true to say that there is no single “best” way. 

Lenses 

If you have a DSLR, then you need a specialised macro lens to get the best results. Some zoom lenses have a macro mode, which may work almost as well. Some mobiles now have close-up capabilities, perhaps combined with zoom. 

Tripod, stand or support. 

To minimise camera shake, and to ensure sharp accurate focusing, you will also need to have a tripod, copy stand, or some other form of support for the camera, and possibly for the coin, and the lighting. 

Software 

Photoshop is the graphic industry standard, is very powerful, but you may need a university degree in it to get the best results, and it isn’t cheap. Other photo editing software is available. It requires time and dedication to get the best from it. 

General tips. 

Try to get the camera and coin parallel to each other. This avoids making round coins oval, and helps to ensure sharp focus. It also helps to have the coin in approximately the correct rotation. Try to get the coin to fill the frame as nearly as possible. 

A good background is plain white paper. Just lay the coin on it. Paper is cheap, replaceable and disposable. 

When processing, our first job is to correct the rotation of the coin. Second is to crop the photo so the coin fills, or nearly fills, the frame. 

After that, you can play around with lighting levels, balance, contrast, and colour settings. 

We also rename an save the image at different stages, in case we want to make changes or further edits. 

If your camera supports it, you might want to shoot RAW, as this gives the most flexibility for processing. 

Retain the original images, and process steps, especially if you wish to retain your Intellectual Property Rights (copyright). 

 

[LawrenceChard]

2 minutes ago, LawrenceChard said:

How to Photograph Coins  - A Very Quick First Draft

Roman Gold Aureus of Nero - Obverse

Portrait of Nero (Nero Claudius Caesar Augustus Germanicus) on obverse of Roman gold aureus.
This is one of our oldest digital coin photos, taken 1st August 1999 with a Ricoh camera, resolution 640 x 480. I can't remember the model, possibly RDC1, it cost about $400 imported from the USA.
 

[MickB]

Using my mobile phone I also use the aid of a bottle where I can balance a coin on top, which makes the focus better when holding the phone above for a shot. Using the screen as a viewfinder I can then move it to get the coin looking dead-on instead of slightly at an angle. Then I crop the shot. I find it better than laying a coin on a flat surface as my camera phone tends to want to focus on the surrounding surface as well, so by having the coin higher the surrounding area is out of focus. My mobile isn't great at close up shots but this way I get a better image.

[Arganto]

If you want to do any editing but don't want to pay for or appropriate Photoshop an open source program called 'The GIMP' is very good. It is as involved as Photoshop to use so not for the impatient...

[DrKarlMoneys]

One thing I tried and actually had some success with is using a scanner. Especially for very reflective coins it means you don't have the distortion of having to take the photo from an angle. I've found it also picks up a lot of detail that shows just how much of a qualitative difference there is between bullion and proof coins, picking up things that aren't so easily visible to the naked eye.

[LawrenceChard]

On 26/04/2020 at 16:41, LawrenceChard said:

How to Photograph Coins  - A Very Quick First Draft

I thought we had an advice or blog page on one our websites, but can't find it. There are some photos of our set-ups on Flickr, but nowhere do we have a complete guide, so I have just created a new project. I just shared the first rough draft, as below, with Doug, our photographer, and invited him to help.

A guide to taking better photographs of coins. 

 

Axial Lighting

Our "Head of Photography" (#1 in a department of 1), Doug Smith, didn't like our "heavy breathing" technique we used to use for reducing reflection, and improving the colour rendition of proof coins in particular, so he did some research online, and was pointed towards "axial lighting", which he (therefore we) now use for most of our coin photos.
Doug made his own axial lighting stand, which worked well enough, but he then improved the design, and cut and assembled a new custom version.

I have been asked quite a few times about it. We have shown photos of it on our website, and on my Flickr stream.

I have always tried to help educate and inform anyone interested, about coins, other aspects of our business, and any other subject where I think I have knowledge or experience worth sharing.

Doug is also similarly helpful.

Unfortunately, he recently moved house, and as part of the move mismantled his laser cutting machine, otherwise he is happy to supply his axial lighting stands in kit form, the buyer just needs to source the glass locally. The good news is that he has ordered a CNC machine, which should be even better, but he is not expecting delivery until Christmas or New Year. I suspect it is his Christmas present to himself.

Links to photos of the axial lighting stand and set-up are already provided earlier in this thread.

A TSF member sent me a Private Message today "

Hi Lawrence,

Would you mind if I used the photo to ask people on here if they can build me 1 as Doug is too busy."

I presume he was meaning this image: http://artiefarties.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/axialilluminationglasssupportstand.jpg which is Doug's image, not mine, but I guess that Doug will be quite happy for it to be used.

There is also an online review of our set-up here: https://www.diyphotography.net/use-mirrors-get-perfect-axial-lighting-macro-subjects/

I hope this helps.

N.B. I would always prefer to receive questions in an open forum than via Private Message, unless it is of a particularly personal nature such as Rita Ora asking for a private viewing of my testoons. (Even then, I would be happy for her to post it in a public forum)

[shawy2510]

Thanks Lawrence....it was me who asked but if anyone has a machine to make 1 either metal or resin e.g 3d printed that they could make 1 let me know. The angle needs to be 45°

http://artiefarties.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/axialilluminationglasssupportstand.jpg

[LawrenceChard]

On 26/04/2020 at 16:41, LawrenceChard said:

How to Photograph Coins  - A Very Quick First Draft

I thought we had an advice or blog page on one our websites, but can't find it. There are some photos of our set-ups on Flickr, but nowhere do we have a complete guide, so I have just created a new project. I just shared the first rough draft, as below, with Doug, our photographer, and invited him to help.

A guide to taking better photographs of coins. 

 

I have an Album/Set on Flick 

 

which shows some of our photographic equipment past and present, together with some advice and recommendations, although these are contained as text descriptions on some of the images.

[SemolinaPilchard]

@shawy2520

Lawrence asked me a while ago to put together something to show how to take better images.  Every time I start something crops up and I get sidetracked.  I do intend to do it but may be a while

For now here is an interview we did with DIYPhotography which explains axial lighting and at the bottom is the video from Gale Spring, I eventually found, when I was looking for a better way

https://www.diyphotography.net/use-mirrors-get-perfect-axial-lighting-macro-subjects/

Shawy - you don't NEED a support unit.  It's handy - but not essential.   Two pieces of wood screwed together would do same 

I find that I angle the glass between circa 42degrees and 49degrees.  So one hand is still needed holding the glass to see which is best.  I frequently take a few anyway as viewing in Bridge/Photoshop shows more detail than the viewfinder anyway.   You can look through the viewfinder with modelling lamp on to show the effects of different angles the glass is placed at.

The only constants are the base of the glass (the pivot point) needs to be perpendicular to the light source - and something dark on the right needs to absorb pass through light and hinder it bouncing back (and up)

Hope this helps - feel free to ask any questions

...and yes...I know the glass in the pics on the interview is very mucky.   Whilst I am much more careful generally it actually doesn't matter 

regards

Doug

 

 

 

 

Edited November 15, 2020 by SemolinaPilchard

[Booky586]

I've been experimenting with the axial lighting technique recently and I've started getting some good results after going through a lot of pain and learning on the way. Here's a picture of the glass stand I'm using, but it doesn't give much adjustment for correcting the direction of light. It's a self made stand, you can see from the photo that's it's made from a few small pieces of wood and ply and didn't take too long to make. It's also open at the front, so I can place my coin on the black velvet shown, place the tube on top and slide this arrangement underneath the stand. This protects the coin from the copystand surface, but also means I don't have to adjust the setup for each photo.

The link following I found to be really useful in understanding axial lighting, and take a note of the stand he uses for the glass. 

Finally here's an example of the output I can get. I've not done any post editing with Photoshop, except for the crop.

 

Edited November 15, 2020 by Booky586

[SemolinaPilchard]

On 15/11/2020 at 17:54, Booky586 said:

I've been experimenting with the axial lighting technique recently and I've started getting some good results after going through a lot of pain and learning on the way. Here's a picture of the glass stand I'm using, but it doesn't give much adjustment for correcting the direction of light. It's a self made stand, you can see from the photo that's it's made from a few small pieces of wood and ply and didn't take too long to make. It's also open at the front, so I can place my coin on the black velvet shown, place the tube on top and slide this arrangement underneath the stand. This protects the coin from the copystand surface, but also means I don't have to adjust the setup for each photo.

The link following I found to be really useful in understanding axial lighting, and take a note of the stand he uses for the glass. 

Finally here's an example of the output I can get. I've not done any post editing with Photoshop, except for the crop.
 

Sorry - only just seen this post.

Good result eh!

We use a 180mm macro (when we can) which gives more working distance to manoeuvre the glass a degree or two but looks like you have enough room there anyway. Anything more than 4 or 5 degrees will push the reflected light off.

Good job I'd say.

[Booky586]

2 hours ago, SemolinaPilchard said:

Sorry - only just seen this post.

Good result eh!

We use a 180mm macro (when we can) which gives more working distance to manoeuvre the glass a degree or two but looks like you have enough room there anyway. Anything more than 4 or 5 degrees will push the reflected light off.

Good job I'd say.

Thanks, I'm pleased with the results I've started to achieve. I'm using a Canon 60mm macro lens and it works well, but the focal length to coins any smaller than a half sovereign doesn't leave much room for the glass reflector to fit between lens and coin.

I'd like to source a clamp similar to the attached image which would replace the frame holding the glass reflector. This gives flexibility to have diferent sized (and smaller) pieces of glass. Alternatively I'd have to upgrade to a bigger macro lens, and they don't come cheap!

Edited January 5, 2021 by Booky586

[LawrenceChard]

Photographing Holographic Coins - Trial and Error

If you think getting good photos of coins is difficult, try photographing holograms, it's not easy, and definitely a case of trial and error.

For example:

It's actually the reverse of a 2020 Canadian gold "reverse proof" one ounce maple leaf, from this set:

 

There is no single answer, and you just have to experiment.

[Richym99]

So Mr Heath Robonson came out to play today, and I knocked up an axial rig out of scrap timber and a photo frame, plus a couple of other bits and bobs.

The camera is a Nikon P900, which isn't a DSLR but has a macro facility and an extraordinary zoom lens.

Just tried two today to experiment, the 1857 Shield, which is my oldest sovererign and has a fair few dings and knocks in it, and the 2007 Proof Sovereign I bought of @ChardsCoinandBullionDealera couple of weeks ago. Since I was copying their rig, thought it appropriate.

These were the results:.

 

 

 

Edited June 18, 2021 by Richym99

[MJCOIN]

29 minutes ago, Richym99 said:

So Mr Heath Robonson came out to play today, and I knocked up an axial rig out of scrap timber and a photo frame, plus a couple of other bits and bobs.

The camera is a Nikon P900, which isn't a DSLR but has a macro facility and an extraordinary zoom lens.

Just tried two today to experiment, the 1857 Shield, which is my oldest sovererign and has a fair few dings and knocks in it, and the 2007 Proof Sovereign I bought of @ChardsCoinandBullionDealera couple of weeks ago. Since I was copying their rig, thought it appropriate.

These were the results:.

 

 

 

Excellent pictures.  Very good.

[Coverte]

I bought a light-box from Aliexpress several years ago for the website photos of a series of products I was selling then; it maybe worth looking to see current prices, as whilst mine was quite well priced, I have noticed Aliexpress now seems far more expensive than it used to be.

Nice pictures by the way - well done!

Edited June 18, 2021 by Coverte