NEW SILVER PROOF BRITANNIA 6PC SET

[StackSellRepeat]

Good Afternoon Ladies & Gent,

 

I’ll keep it sort & sweet, I’ve recently seen a few posts of the new Brits which I think look spectacular, some may disprove but we all have our own opinions  

 

So if I was to get a full set does anyone know roughly how much it would cost to get graded ? This is new territory for me so I have no idea how this would work i.e How long it would take, would I need to join some sort of grading society, is there any difference in value between US & UK graded coins or are they valued the same? etc.... 

 

 

Completely new to the world of graded coins, but it’s never too late.... Any info would be much appreciated

 

 

Thank You SSR

 

 

[JunkBond]

You need to speak to @Numistacker

[StackSellRepeat]

47 minutes ago, JunkBond said:

You need to speak to @Numistacker

Thanks bud, have Pm’d @Numistacker hopefully I can get my first graded set.....well possibly a few different types 😜  

[STONE]

The problem with buying it then sending it out for grading is they may come back at PFUC69 or worse at a 68. Now you have paid for the set, paid for grading and its still only worth your initial buy in cost because a 68 or 69 doesn't bring the value up much, if at all.  Its far better to buy a set that is graded already at PFUC70 (proof ultra cameo) Initial cost will be more but depending on collectability, eventually they will be worth more. It also depends on how many grade out at a 70. The less the better(scarcity)

[StackSellRepeat]

10 minutes ago, STONE said:

The problem with buying it then sending it out for grading is they may come back at PFUC69 or worse at a 68. Now you have paid for the set, paid for grading and its still only worth your initial buy in cost because a 68 or 69 doesn't bring the value up much, if at all.  Its far better to buy a set that is graded already at PFUC70 (proof ultra cameo) Initial cost will be more but depending on collectability, eventually they will be worth more. It also depends on how many grade out at a 70. The less the better(scarcity)

Wish I knew all this before I put both feet in the sandbox, purchased a few different type of brits a few hours ago 😕 Neverless I like the design & will be kept in my personal collection. I’m assuming coins that tend to get the 70 grade are the very few first striked coins compare to the counterparts that were minted after a few 100 strikes ? or am I wrong ?

[STONE]

Regardless of the coins you are going for, its always best to get the highest grade and buy them as soon as they are available. Because the longer you wait the higher the price goes. Also the difference between re-selling a PFUC70 and a PFUC69 can be quite substantial. Also picking which ones that will do well is EXTREMLY difficult and virtually impossible to know ahead of time. Buy the coin because you like it.

[sovereignsteve]

5 minutes ago, StackSellRepeat said:

 I’m assuming coins that tend to get the 70 grade are the very few first striked coins compare to the counterparts that were minted after a few 100 strikes ? or am I wrong ?

In theory yes but you don't know how many coins they strike before (a) they clean and re-polish and (b) use a new one.

It's complicated by the fact that, in theory, a slight imperfection produced during the strike should not cause a coin to fail to achieve PF70

With regard to your plan; it's usually only the 1 oz coin that's worth grading. There are next to no collectors of the other coins other than maybe the 1/2 oz

[STONE]

13 minutes ago, StackSellRepeat said:

Wish I knew all this before I put both feet in the sandbox, purchased a few different type of brits a few hours ago 😕 Neverless I like the design & will be kept in my personal collection. I’m assuming coins that tend to get the 70 grade are the very few first striked coins compare to the counterparts that were minted after a few 100 strikes ? or am I wrong ?

Not necessarily. If I am not mistaken extra steps are taken when they mint proof coins like cleaning the dies between each coin stamp. Ideally the best case scenario would be to have a super low COA number that grades at a PFUC70. You could demand a super nice resale price on a COA#1-10 that grades at a PFUC70.  I would suggest researching previous years of the coins you are looking at and see how many graded at a 70 and what prices they are going for. I know NGC has a coin look up guide, you just need to get the number off of the slab and enter it.

[StackSellRepeat]

3 minutes ago, sovereignsteve said:

In theory yes but you don't know how many coins they strike before (a) they clean and re-polish and (b) use a new one.

It's complicated by the fact that, in theory, a slight imperfection produced during the strike should not cause a coin to fail to achieve PF70

With regard to your plan; it's usually only the 1 oz coin that's worth grading. There are next to no collectors of the other coins other than maybe the 1/2 oz

Thanks for clearing that up bud, would it be worth getting a 5 oz Brit graded ?

[sovereignsteve]

Just now, StackSellRepeat said:

Thanks for clearing that up bud, would it be worth getting a 5 oz Brit graded ?

Not sure. It's not a coin I personally follow. They were all the rage a few years ago, but that might have been something to do with the 2014 design.

[STONE]

Yeah the 2014 was a great design, hard to follow up when you hit the top...

[StackSellRepeat]

6 minutes ago, sovereignsteve said:

Not sure. It's not a coin I personally follow. They were all the rage a few years ago, but that might have been something to do with the 2014 design.

I see why look at those curves 🤤

[sovereignsteve]

1 minute ago, StackSellRepeat said:

I see why look at those curves

Yes, look at the arse on that lion😂

[bored]

That`s a fine piece of tail.

[StackSellRepeat]

So what do you guys think of the 5 oz, I personally love the way the designers depicted her, Just look at that stance it’s mind blowing. Spectacular design she’s in the front with the wind blowing those long beautiful locks then in the other hand she’s got that trident facing the enemy & looks to be shielding her comrades or have I gone too far 😂  

 

Got to give props to the designer I think he played a wild card & im digging it 👍