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  1. In all likelihood, you probably have very little recourse other than to refund the money. Selling on eBay is tough at times. Even if you do everything right sometimes things go wrong and you have to fix them. If after communicating with the customer you still feel that the customer is ripping you off, block him from any future bids.
  2. I'm well aware that there are fakes on eBay, both in gold and in silver, but to suggest that just because there are can be fakes the solution is to not use eBay is a bit silly. After all, the story came out last year that RCM had sold a jeweler a fkae gold bar (https://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/ottawa/fake-gold-wafer-rbc-canadian-mint-1.4368801). It doesn't appear that anyone ever called for boycotting RCM products because of this. There are fakes in many places, eBay, RCM, car boot sales, coin shows, and yes, even some on line dealers. A better response to the presence of fakes everywhere is knowledge. Learn what is being faked and learn how to determine if something is fake. For online, learn the red flags that indicate a potential problem and steer clear of that item. You just mentioned one, PM's sold from China? No thanks! On line vendors, eBay included, have very good buyer protection mechanisms. As for the opinion that 50% of the gold bars and coins on eBay are fake, that's just preposterous. You can even debunk that yourself. Go to ebay, type "silver" (or "gold" if that is your preference), navigate to the Bullion category and go through the listings. There's just no way that 1 out of every 2 listings is fake. There are many sources for PM's, none of which you should blindly assume that there is no chance of purchasing fakes. Each source has it's own pros and cons, learn those, instruct new stackers on the pros and cons, and let them make a decision whether they want to use that source or not.
  3. The article on buying and holding silver is a good example of the initial purpose of this thread. While I agree with many of the premises and statements made concerning silver itself, the author makes quite a few definitive statements on taking action on those premises. Things such as where to buy, where not to buy, what to buy, the size and shape of purchases, and where to sell are not standard for every stacker, they are stylistic and situational decisions based on the comfort level of the stacker. When they are presented as a list of do's and dont's to be followed, they can really have some adverse consequences to a new stacker, both in financial loss and opportunity loss. These type of things should be presented as options with pros and cons instead of as definitive statements of do's and dont's. I routinely buy things he says not to buy from locations he says not to buy from and usually do not buy the things he says need to be bought. As an aside, I found it ironic that he wrote that one shouldn't buy from eBay, but they should look to eBay when they sell because of the higher prices that can be obtained.
  4. My spreadsheet has multiple tabs which allows to to keep track of both metrics and inventory. I have a summary page which contains this: Silver Spot: $14.73 Silver Oz: 100 (Trans Amt - 100.0000) Silver Value: $1473 Silver Collector Value: $1600 Silver Investment: $900 ROI Silver Spot Value: 10% ROI Collector Value: 16% Spot is current spot price, Silver Oz is the total number of ounces held, the transaction amount is a check from another tab used for inventory, Silver value is spot value, Collector value is collector retail value of items, Investment is my cost, ROI is projected return on investment. It also contains this: Government Bullion, Silver 1 Ounce Type Size (Oz) Quant Ag Tot Value Armenia Noah's Ark 1.0000 10 10.00 $147.30 Australian Kangaroo 1.0000 5 5.00 $73.65 These are breakdowns of different items in my stack. This tab is an overall snapshot of my holdings at any given time. The summary page is driven by data from the Holdings tab which contains information like this: Government Bullion, Silver 1 Oz Quantity Description Year Price Denom Size (Oz) Purity Mintage Motif Link Andorra Eagle 2008 $34.00 1 Dinar 1.0000 0.999 Unknown Eagle Bavarian 2 Andorra Eagle 2009 $34.00 1 Dinar 1.0000 0.999 Unknown Eagle Bavarian Andorra Eagle 2010 $34.00 1 Dinar 1.0000 0.999 Unknown Eagle Bavarian Andorra Eagle 2013 $34.00 1 Dinar 1.0000 0.999 Unknown Eagle Bavarian Andorra Eagle 2014 $34.00 1 Dinar 1.0000 0.999 10,000 Eagle Bavarian 1 Armenia Noah's Ark 2011 $20.00 500 Dram 1.0000 0.999 268,325 Noah's Ark Leipziger 1 Armenia Noah's Ark 2012 $19.00 500 Dram 1.0000 0.999 457,576 Noah's Ark Leipziger Armenia Noah's Ark 2013 $19.00 500 Dram 1.0000 0.999 581,800 Noah's Ark Leipziger 3 Armenia Noah's Ark 2014 $19.00 500 Dram 1.0000 0.999 566,323 Noah's Ark Leipziger 3 Armenia Noah's Ark 2015 $19.00 500 Dram 1.0000 0.999 960,182 Noah's Ark Leipziger 2 Armenia Noah's Ark 2016 $19.00 500 Dram 1.0000 0.999 529,202 Noah's Ark Leipziger Armenia Noah's Ark 2017 $19.00 500 Dram 1.0000 0.999 479,551 Noah's Ark Leipziger Armenia Noah's Ark 2018 $19.00 500 Dram 1.0000 0.999 Unknown Noah's Ark Leipziger Most of it is self explanatory. The price is the retail value of the item. The link is a link to the mint which produced the item. The Holdings tab is used as a granular inventory page and also as a reference for sales and purchases. I both buy and sell and when I set up at shows, this gives me information as to pricing and also items I'm looking for. The last tab contains a record of every transaction that I make. It contains information that looks like this: Holdings Ag Amt $ Amt $/Oz Spot G/L Cum $ Tot $/Oz Cost Profit Action Item Party 95 -1.0000 -$27.00 $27.00 $14.57 $12.04 $848.14 14.9632 $17.00 $10.00 Sold 2011 Canadian Wildlife Grizzly Auction 96 -1.0000 -$17.00 $17.00 $14.57 $2.02 $875.14 14.9765 $15.50 $1.50 Sold 2006 ASE Auction 97 -1.0000 -$50.00 $50.00 $14.57 $35.02 $892.14 14.9787 $21.50 $28.50 Sold 2005 Maple Leaf Victory in Japan Privy Auction 98 -1.0000 -$24.00 $24.00 $14.57 $8.98 $942.14 15.0174 $15.00 $9.00 Sold 2010 Maple Leaf Vancouver Privy eBay 99 -1.0000 -$25.00 $25.00 $14.57 $9.97 $966.14 15.0274 $17.95 $7.05 Sold 2016 Maple Leaf Wolf Privy eBay 100 -1.0000 -$15.00 $15.00 $14.57 -$0.04 $991.14 15.0384 $14.00 $1.00 Sold Generic silver bar eBay 101 -1.0000 -$21.86 $21.86 $14.68 $6.82 $1006.14 15.0383 $19.00 $2.86 Sold 2000 Britannia eBay 102 2.0000 $28.00 $14.00 $14.78 $2.09 $1028 15.0458 N/A N/A Bought 2000 ASE’s (2) Coin Show 100 5.0000 $70.00 $14.00 $14.78 $5.24 $1000 15.0481 N/A N/A Bought 1999 ASE’s (5) Coin Show I have a date for each transaction out on the left. Each transaction contains such as what it was, whether it was a purchase or sale, where it took place, the amount and cost. Each transaction also calculations/data that I find useful such as the spot price, cost per oz, and profit/loss on the item if it was a sale. Finally, each transaction contains cumulative calculations for the stack such as Holdings which is the total number of ounces, the Cum $ cost to date, and the cumulative average cost per ounce of the stack. The G/L column is a calculation which is associated with the cumulative cost per Oz. The top row of this tab is always the current status of the status of my stack. Overall, even though it's a complicated spreadsheet, it allows me to keep track of anything I might want to do with my stack, holdings, sales, want lists, and metrics galore. As a disclaimer, some of the data in the rows have been changed but this gives a good picture of what my spreadsheet looks like. Like @Coolsmp said, you can pretty much do anything you want with Excel. If you have particular things you want to do and don't know how to do them I'm sure many of us in the group wouldn't mind helping you get your spreadsheet set up the way you would like it.
  5. @Sixgun is correct. Silver art round minted in the US. There is no indication on which private mint minted these, but I see them periodically for sale. There may be a little collector premium associated with these rounds. The last dealer I saw who had them was asking $23 apiece for them.
  6. I purchase fractional silver whenever I can find it at reasonable prices.
  7. Based on your reply, it sounds like you have a good understanding of why you stack silver. If I had the same mindset as you, then my stack would be much closer to 100% constitutional silver. I can appreciate the history of it, but it just doesn't factor in to my motivation for stacking. If you do chose to acquire .999 stuff, just make sure that it fits with your stacking philosophy. After all, you will be the one who has to determine if or when you dispose of your stack and you will be the one who has to cultivate the sources to make it happen.
  8. Much of it depends on the reason you are stacking. Constitutional silver has a large following so it is always easy to get rid of. Sometimes it commands more of a premium than .999 FS and sometimes less. Right now its about the same. 11X face (which is what I can get it for from my sources) translates to $15.38 per Oz. I can get generic rounds for a little less than that right now. On a personal level, I don't like constitution silver so for me the goal is 0%. This is due to a couple of factors 1) the fact that I'd be stacking 90% silver means that I'd also be stacking 10% non-PM's. If my goals is to stack silver, I want to stack silver, not something else. 2) Because it is not pure, many times, when selling to scrap, you can;t get as much for it. THe primary reason I stack silver is because I think silver is grossly undervalued due to its myriad of industrial uses and I feel that there will eventually be a valuation correction. I don't believe in the SHTF scenario. All this being said, the % you chose to hold in your stack has to be correlated with your reason for stacking AND your exit strategy.
  9. Nice buy at spot. On occasion I find deals close to or even below spot as well. Virtually all .999 rounds should have markings of purity and weight. Some are marked on the edges. There are a lot of silver plated rounds/bars. If you find a piece marked 100 mil .999 FS (or anything with mil), steer clear, its plated.
  10. I agree with this. Your exit strategy really depends on the nature of your stack. If the bulk of what you have is low premium rounds/coins, then exiting is just a function of finding a buyer somewhere close to spot. If your stack consists of premium collector coins it will take time because you have to find a buyer who values the item as a collector not as a stacker. In my opinion, an exit strategy should be done all along the way. If you intend on disposing of your stack at some point, practice now with small amounts. Try selling some of your items in different venues (online, to dealers, in person) to see what sells, how well things sell, and what you can expect with regard to spot vs. premium. Begin cultivating buyers now so that when you are really ready to exit, you know where to go to sell it. Doing this accomplishes several things: 1) it may help remove some of the emotional attachment to items in the stack, 2) it can help refine what you are stacking, 3) flipping items for profit can help grow your stack quicker in the near term, 4) it helps iron out the bugs in your perceived exit strategy, and 5) it may uncover new sources for purchases.
  11. Most of my purchases are in person, so I typically vet before I buy. Since I focus on vintage silver rounds and coins, I make it a practice of researching what has been faked. I rely primarily on experience of having seen and purchased the same items before. If something looks off with the coin, I pass. As an aside, whether or not you choose to purchase off of eBay, it is a good reference point.for seeing what coins should look like. If you don't trust ebay then go to online dealers or google images. For the coins I don't buy in person, I typically vet the seller first. If I don't get a good feel for the seller, I pass. Next I vet the coin. If it's not something I've seen before I try to find others like it for comparison. If I do end up making the purchase and I have doubts about it, I test it on the Sigma Metalytics PMV.
  12. To answer the OP's question, I think there may be several reasons that the gold/silver trade doesn't occur very often. The primary reason is probably that both gold and silver are somewhat out of favor right now, with silver being a little more out of favor. At the end of the day, a trade occurs between individuals who each have something the other wants or can use. With both metals being out of favor right now, most people have a tendency to stick with what they have. With that said, back in the summer I did trade 19 ASE's for a 1/4 Oz of gold. This was with my LCS. I didn't need all of those 2015 ASE's but the LCS had a market for them and the LCS didn't have a market for the coin that I traded for, but I did. The trade was basically spot for spot but only occurred because we each had something we didn't need but could trade for something we each could use. I have silver that I intend to rotate into gold, but I don't want to do it at these prices. If the ratio closes, that will most probably signify that silver has increased in price at a higher percentage relative to gold. When this happens, it may begin to bring more silver buyers into the market making silver more desirable than gold and creating opportunities for trade. If silver begins to spike along with gold I think that what happened in 2011 will happen again. Dealers will not be able to keep enough silver on hand to satisfy the demand and they will willingly trade gold for silver.
  13. It looks good to me as well. In addition, I'm unaware of this particular coin being faked. It doesn't mean that it hasn't been, it's just that the fakes tend to be of more common coins/rounds and most are of the 1 Oz variety. I do agree with HelpingHands, though, in the condition it's in it's pretty much worth spot price.
  14. It looks good to me. The versions with the radial lines only started in 2014 (I think). Here's my 1994 Maple leaf for comparison.
  15. The best places to sell will need to be determined by you at the local level. Bear in mind that you probably won't recover collector premiums unless you sell to collectors. Silver is not usually a good short term play and 12 months is short term. Now is the time to develop your exit strategy. Consider online dealers, local coin shops, and local shows. Find out if there is a collector club near you. They may have opportunities to sell.