Blackcab

Hope not, still haven't sold the Charles and Diana ones yet

With the help of some TSF members, which I will keep anonymous in order to help protect the community when investigating potential future instances, and some admin investigation...

We have today banned a new member who was found to be abusing/manipulating the trading feedback system to create false feedback on trades that never took place on TSF.

The decision to ban was also made as we also believed that this person could have posed a potential trading risk to TSF members. TSF prides itself on having one of, if not the, most honest online marketplaces for trading precious metals. This year alone there have been over 5046 new trade topics started, with many trade topics containing huge lists of precious metals items for sale. Many thanks for those members who choose to buy and sell on TSF. 

Please do see the following topic and re-read to remind yourself on some simple tips in order to help reduce risk as much as possible when trading on TSF:
 

 
Many thanks to Premium Members who help to support and maintain TSF. For those who would like to support TSF please do consider purchasing Premium Membership as this helps greatly in maintaining and growing TSF. The larger TSF gets the more situations need to be investigated in order to help protect members as best as we can. To upgrade your account to Premium Membership to support TSF in exchange for all of the listed benefits including seeing new trade listings 3 days before standard members, please see the store here. An extra special thank to you to Platinum group Premium Members.

From the website of allgoldcoins I have found this chart which summarizes the scarcity of various sovereigns per year and per mint
The link is here: 
https://www.allgoldcoins.co.uk/pages/modern-gold-proof-coins-sets
A snip of the scarcity table is here: 
 

There are three books you will want for this:
Marsh, The Gold Sovereign - this has reference material on all sovereign mintages up to 2021 or so.  It also has a price guide, which is slightly out of date. Spink, Coins of England and the United Kingdom - published annually, this has price guides for all British coins, including sovereigns, at various grades. Allen, Grading British Coins - this has sample photos of all the obverse and reverse designs on British coinage at various states of wear.  You can use it to teach yourself how to evaluate grades. Some thoughts on sovereigns:
Anything pre-victoria is putting you squarely in the rare coin space where the numismatic premium will dominate the price of the coin unless it's in extremely poor condition.  Don't buy these as an investment unless you're confident that you can assess a reasonably good view of the resale value. Young Victoria sovereigns do carry a premium, especially ones with the shield design on the reverse (shields).  This doesn't necessarily mean you should buy them in preference to anything else.  You still have to have a reasonable sense of the price to know whether you're buying it at a price you can recover, and some idea of grading to know what sort of condition it's in.  There are a lot of folks selling very poor quality young vic sovs at very optimistic prices, and examples of young vic sovs in good condition (say: EF or better) are quite rare.  Of the 20 or so young vic sovs I've bought and sold over the past year or so, I think about three are nice enough that I really want to keep them. Jubilee Victoria sovs tend to show wear very badly, and ones in good condition (i.e. where the detail in the lace, garters and hair line aren't badly worn) aren't that common. I've got two in a condition that I want to keep. Old Vic and Edward VII sovs do pop up in good condition from time to time, but you do have to know what to look for as there are still a lot in poor to mediocre condition.  They're not hugely in demand by collectors so be aware of the grade and price you're paying.  By and large, these should have low premiums unless they are in exceptionally good condition, and be sure you have a handle on the grade before getting into anything with a numismatic premium. George V sovs are quite good value as they were withdrawn from circulation during WWI but still produced in large numbers.  It's quite easy to find examples in good condition.  With the exception of rare mintages they tend to attract a low premium, so they can be good for stacking.  Look sideways at anything with a significant numismatic premium and make sure you've got some idea of a reasonable market value.  I and C mint sovs are less common than British, Australian or South African ones, but not as rare as folks make them out to be (although there are rare years, but chance are you won't see one of those). Gillick and Machin sovs are quite common and tend to be in good condition as they were never circulated.  There are a few less common years but nothing particularly rare.  Beware of overpriced 1957 and 1959 Gillicks. Maklouf sovs were only ever made as proofs, so tend to be quite expensive.  Don't buy proof sovs unless you can evaluate the grade and have some idea of the market price for different years. Modern (2000 and post) sovs should largely only be purchased as bullion.  Some special years can command a small premium but be careful not to overpay. Sovs can be good value for money - small fractional coins with a low premium.  However, there are a lot of pitfalls with buying sovs, so you do have to do your homework and get some understanding of their numismatics.  Really, there's no short cut around this.  Don't just go buying young vics for the sake of young vics.  By and large,  the value has already been extracted from them so they're not necessarily a bargain unless you have enough of a handle on the value to make that call yourself.