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CosmikDebris

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CosmikDebris last won the day on April 14

CosmikDebris had the most liked content!

About CosmikDebris

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location:
    England
  • Stacker/Collector:
    Stacker & Collector

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  1. CosmikDebris

    photography

    I would suggest that the polariser is not essential. I do not own one. A friend of mine has one but uses it rarely. Using it on a wide angle lens or at the wrong angle to the sun normally causes uneven polarisation. The effect looks awful in my opinion. However under the right conditions it can look really good. If I ever get one, and have considered it many times, I would mostly be using it in woodlands and for long exposures of rivers and waterfalls to remove glare from rocks and water. they can really make colours pop, especially in Autumn. With regards to the 0.6 hard grad, the medium should do fine and serve in more situations. Generally, 0.6 if the sun is behind or out of the frame, 0.9 or stronger if shooting into the sun, especially if the sun is not diffused by cloud or hidden behind other features. I get by using a 0.9 soft, 0.6 hard and 0.75 soft and have done for a few years, I must stress though that I get by, it's not ideal. I've been considering a medium set, aka - the Goldilocks grad, not to hard not to soft but just right! My typical long exposure seascape set up would be thus - 0.6 hard, bigstopper. With the sun behind or to either side. This is a good formula. Other than that it's a good kit, but a lot money for someone who seems to be torn between wildlife and landscape, A hunter cannot chase two rabbits! I would be inclined to shoot your favourite subject until you become good at it then start to diverge. I started out with the DSLR Starter Kit and added a bigstopper and then picked up some more grads down the line. However, Lee filters hold there value and should you need to sell them you will get most of your money back! Polarisers - https://www.lightstalking.com/polariser-mistakes/
  2. CosmikDebris

    photography

    My first serious camera was a Canon G11, this was considered a pro point and click because of it's ability to shoot RAW. I spent a few years with it learning the basics, mostly shooting macro and travel. I then upgraded to a DSLR, Canon 60D, which I still own but do not use, it's boxed up and ready to sell, if I every get around to it! After four years or so using that I went full frame. I also have a 35mm Canon AE1 Program from the early 80's and a Mamiya RZ67 Pro II medium format film camera from the late 90's I think, I use both occasionally. With regards to full frame benefits, it mostly comes down to image quality. Better high ISO performance, less noise, greater dynamic range and better shallow depth of field aesthetics. The benefit of crop/dx/apsc lies in the focal length multiplier at the telephoto end. A 100mm lens on a dx/apsc becomes 150mm or so depending on the crop factor, this varies between manufacturers, I think is Nikon 1.5. So you can see the benefit if you are shooting wildlife or sports, a 70-300mm lens would be the equivalent of 450mm on the long end. But this is also true of the wide end and can be detrimental. However most manufacturers make glass specifically for dx/apsc bodies which account for the crop factor thus giving you the stated, true focal length. My advice would be to keep your dx for a few years, then decide on an upgrade. You should also consider that dx bodies are smaller and lighter to carry. Don't go chasing megapixels, you really only need so many to make a nice A3 print. Concentrate on getting good exposures and compositions, quality images over image quality! This discussion gives a bit more detail on the Crop vs Full Frame argument : https://www.slrlounge.com/workshop/crop-vs-full-frame-cameras/
  3. CosmikDebris

    photography

    Robert White are usually the cheapest for most filters. https://www.robertwhite.co.uk/
  4. CosmikDebris

    photography

    I do have some prints available.
  5. CosmikDebris

    photography

    Canon 6D, 16-35mm f4 L. Lee 10 stop ND, Lee 0.9 soft grad, 0.6 hard grad among others. Get yourself a 10 or 6 stop ND and a 0.6 hard grad, that should cover you in most situations for long exposure seascapes. Tripod and cable release are also essential. Happy to help if you need more advice.
  6. CosmikDebris

    photography

    Some of my stuff here - https://www.viewbug.com/member/Stormrider
  7. CosmikDebris

    Is buying sunshine mint bars from UK dealers a good idea ?

    You are right, VAT added at checkout! I should stick to gold.....duh!
  8. CosmikDebris

    Is buying sunshine mint bars from UK dealers a good idea ?

    This seems like a good deal compared to other UK dealers, although contact them first to make sure that they are Sunshine bars! These are £170 + at Atkinsons inc VAT so at £141 +pp they are almost VAT free! http://www.hattongardenmetals.com/buy/pid184/Silver Bar 10oz.aspx Ignore this post at all costs!
  9. CosmikDebris

    Is buying sunshine mint bars from UK dealers a good idea ?

    Silver bars? Probably not, unless you do not mind the 20% VAT!
  10. CosmikDebris

    New member from Sweden

    Hello, welcome to the forum!
  11. CosmikDebris

    Hello silver forum

    Welcome......also from the Southwest🐲
  12. CosmikDebris

    Today I Received

    Hi, Can I ask where you bought them? Currently looking for pre '33 gold. Definitely no restrikes ever.
  13. Nobody asked you to read it, much less post a comment. Enjoy your Kool Aid night cap sheeple!
  14. Yep, they just had to smear the otherwise trouble free, successful world cup! I was waiting for an incident of some sort. So predictable..
  15. CosmikDebris

    Coin Photography - Lighting?

    Try shooting in a North facing room if you want even light, you can then play with exposure and white balance to your liking. I shoot a fair bit of macro in the field and never use a ring flash. Here is an example, natural light only - https://www.viewbug.com/photo/65752422